Fragrance enthusiasts often come across terms like “flanker” when exploring their favorite perfume collections, but not everyone fully understands what flankers are or why brands release them. In this post, we’ll delve into the fascinating world of perfume flankers, their purpose, and how they differ from the original scents.
What Are Flankers in Perfumery?
In perfumery, a “flanker” refers to a new version or variation of an already existing fragrance. When a brand releases a flanker, it typically tweaks one or more elements of the original perfume, either enhancing certain notes, adding new ones, or changing the overall composition. Flankers may share the same base DNA as the original fragrance but with subtle or noticeable differences in terms of scent profile, bottle design, or overall concept.
Flankers are often created to appeal to a new audience or to extend the life of a popular fragrance. This tactic allows perfume houses to capitalize on the success of a well-loved fragrance while offering something fresh to both loyal fans and potential new customers.
How Do Flankers Differ from the Original?
Although flankers are often marketed as a new take on a popular fragrance, they’re not necessarily radically different from the original scent. Here are a few ways to distinguish a flanker from its predecessor:
- Fragrance Composition: While the original fragrance might focus on a specific set of notes, a flanker will often have added or enhanced elements. For example, the flanker may emphasize floral or fruity notes or may introduce warmer, spicier undertones for a different seasonal appeal.
- Bottle Design: Flankers often have slight variations in their packaging. Brands might change the color of the bottle, modify the shape, or add a new label design. These visual cues help distinguish the flanker from the original, even if the scent is only subtly altered.
- Target Audience: Brands often release flankers to target a new market or seasonal occasion. For instance, a flanker could be marketed as a lighter, fresher version of the original for summer, whereas the original might be heavier and more intense for colder months.
- Scent Strength: Some flankers are designed to have a lighter or more intense version of the original fragrance. A "parfum" version of a flanker, for example, maybe more concentrated, while an "eau de toilette" version could be more refreshing and less potent.
Why Do Brands Release Flankers?
Perfume brands release flankers for a variety of reasons, each of which helps keep their fragrance collections relevant, appealing, and profitable. Here are the key reasons why perfume houses release flankers:
- Capitalizing on a Successful Fragrance: When a fragrance becomes a hit, brands often release flankers to capitalize on its success. Instead of developing a completely new fragrance from scratch, releasing a flanker allows them to build on an already well-established perfume and attract both new and returning customers.
- Seasonal and Limited Editions: Fragrance houses often release flankers to match a season or limited edition event. For example, a flanker with more citrus notes may be released in the spring or summer to appeal to warmer weather, while a richer, spicier version may be launched for the fall and winter months.
- Updating for Changing Trends: Consumer preferences in the fragrance world shift over time. If a particular type of fragrance becomes popular (e.g., oriental, gourmand, or citrus-based), brands will create flankers to reflect these new trends while still holding on to the familiar scent profile that made the original fragrance popular.
- Expanding the Brand’s Offerings: Perfume houses want to maintain interest in their product lines. By creating flankers, they can expand their portfolio without completely abandoning a beloved scent. This gives customers a sense of continuity while offering them new variations to enjoy.
How to Distinguish a Flanker from the Original?
It can be tricky to identify a flanker, especially when you don’t have both fragrances side by side. Here are a few ways to distinguish a flanker from the original:
- Compare the Scent Notes: The easiest way to tell if a fragrance is a flanker is to compare the notes. A flanker will typically have the same base notes as the original but may add additional notes or emphasize a particular aspect (e.g., florals, spices, or fruits). Look up the full fragrance breakdown to spot the differences.
- Examine the Packaging: As mentioned, many brands redesign the bottle when releasing a flanker. Look for changes in the bottle shape, label design, and color scheme. These cosmetic changes often signal a flanker rather than the original scent.
- Check the Name: Some flankers have names that include terms like “intense,” “sport,” or “light,” which suggest a variation on the original fragrance. For example, Chanel's "Coco Mademoiselle Intense" is a more intense version of the original, with stronger notes.
- Understand the Marketing: Flankers are often marketed as "new versions" or "limited editions," even though they share a lot of common ground with the original fragrance. Brands may push these versions as suitable for different occasions, seasons, or moods.
The Evolution of Popular Fragrances: Flankers
Flankers provide an exciting glimpse into how a fragrance evolves. Popular perfumes, like Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male, Chanel No. 5, and Yves Saint Laurent’s Black Opium, have all seen multiple flankers released over the years. These variations not only adapt to current fragrance trends but also help the brands stay relevant in a competitive market.
For instance, Le Male originally launched in the 1990s with a classic fougère profile and has since been followed by several flankers such as Le Male Essence de Parfum and Le Male Le Parfum, each with a modern twist on the original's sensual and masculine scent.
Similarly, Chanel No. 5 has seen numerous flankers since its initial release, including Chanel No. 5 L’Eau, which offers a fresher, lighter take on the classic floral aldehyde, appealing to younger audiences and those seeking a more contemporary scent.
The Best Flankers of Famous Fragrances
Several flankers have gained a cult following due to their successful adaptation of a beloved fragrance. Here are some of the best-known flankers in the perfume world:
- Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium Floral Shock – A flanker of the original Black Opium, Floral Shock offers a lighter, more floral interpretation of the deep coffee and vanilla-based scent, perfect for warmer months.
- Dior Sauvage Parfum – A richer, more intense version of the popular Dior Sauvage Eau de Toilette, this flanker features a bolder, deeper scent with notes of amber and sandalwood.
- Jean-Paul Gaultier Scandal by Night – A flanker to the original Scandal, this fragrance intensifies the sweet, honeyed notes and adds a more seductive, nighttime appeal.
- Lancome La Vie Est Belle L’Éclat – A lighter version of the beloved La Vie Est Belle, L’Éclat is more radiant and floral, designed to be worn during the daytime and spring months.
Flankers play a significant role in the world of perfumery, offering fragrance lovers new variations of their favorite scents while allowing brands to tap into shifting trends. Understanding the differences between an original fragrance and its flanker can help you make informed choices when adding new perfumes to your collection. Whether you’re looking for a fresh, seasonal version or a more intense take on a classic fragrance, there’s always something new and exciting in the world of flankers.
By recognizing the distinct qualities of flankers, you can enjoy a more personalized fragrance experience, discovering new variations of old favorites that complement your style and preferences.